We met the chef pioneer and popularizer of haute cuisine in Mexico. Who also indicated some of the best restaurants in his country
It can be said that for Zahie Tellez kitchen is not only a passion, but also a kind of mission. It includes what he does, the intense activity of dissemination of Mexican gastronomy is at home where he leads a television program, and abroad in almost as an ambassador of the culinary traditions of his country and as a tireless promoter of the renewal thereof. Of course, he did not miss the appointment of Expo 2015, and on that occasion he also performed in a performance in the kitchen with chef Viviana Varese Starry Alice at Eataly restaurant in Milan. An opportunity to meet and take stock before Christmas right on Mexican cuisine, its best restaurants and wines.
In Italian haute cuisine, as we understand it today, it was born in relatively recent times, say after obtaining the 3 Michelin stars by Gualtiero Marchesi in 1986. Today, at what point is the Mexican haute cuisine?
“The breakthrough we started about 15 years ago.
But Michelin stars, alas, no chef in Mexico was still awarded. However we have gained a lot of technique abroad, I myself have long studied in Italy, even with the star chef Hugh Alciati (Guido Restaurant Serralunga d’Alba), so we went back to his country and we started to play our ingredients “.
What are the peculiarities of high contemporary Mexican cuisine?
“There was a long period when everyone thought the Mexican food at the restaurant was very heavy (fried, spicy vegetables, huge portions, etc.). And maybe they had a point. Today much has changed. The dishes are much lighter, there are more variety and more simplicity. While the technique in the kitchen is more complex, innovative. So it is very much improved. The recipes are both refined and balanced. And there is a lot of research, experimentation continues. ”
In Italy, even under the pressure of some producers, it starts to get the upper restaurant beer is paired with dishes both as an ingredient. I know that she has dealt with this aspect of the kitchen, especially with combinations of Mexican dishes.
“The beer is cheaper and has a low alcohol content. The Mexicans are not accustomed to wine, consume more beer wine, so the idea of combining beer also refined dishes arose almost spontaneously. Of course not all beers are suitable to accompany certain dishes. I started to study and agree with the beer label Bohemia have conceived certain combinations, for example certain beers will accompany very well to spicy. ”
It intervenes as the creativity of the chef of a traditional Mexican dish?
“Everyone has his palate. Creativity blossoms after the study of flavors, aromas of different ingredients and then after attempts and attempts to combine traditional and local ingredients in an original way, but even before the creativity in the kitchen count more rigor and discipline “.
The culinary TV shows in Mexico have as much success as in Italy, in Europe and North America?
“Yes, but at first they were only on Sky (surcharge), today they are more popular and accessible.
Three wines to order absolutely when you go on vacation in Mexico.
“The Mariatinto Humberto Falcon; Icarus José Luis Durand; Vino de Piedra Hugo D’Acosta. ”
The best dish to match the tequila? He knows that the tequila is much loved by celebrities? For example, the actress Anne Hathaway and Victoria Beckham.
“Certainly with very spicy tacos, pozole run with.”
The ingredients that are never missing in the kitchen of his home.
“Tortillas, vegetables and fruit, beans, chili, pasta Italian. But often I make pasta at home and gather herbs from my garden.
His passions outside of gastronomy.
“The jewelry, painting, opera and numbers. I have a degree in Economics and Political Science “.
We recommend some top restaurants in Mexico?
“In Mexico City, at least three: South 777 Edgar Nunez (contemporary cuisine); Nicos Gerardo Vazquez Lugo (traditional); Enrique Olvera of Pujol (contemporary cuisine).
In Mérida: the Kuuk Pedro Evia and the La Tradición David Cetina.
In Monterrey: Pangea Guillermo Beristain and the more traditional Fonda San Francisco.
In Guadalajara, the Lula Bistro Darren Walsh and Alcalde Panchito Ruano “.