Cortina d’Ampezzo, Riccardo Gaspari, restaurant, SanBrite

SanBrite, complete supply chain and romance in the mountains of Cortina d’Ampezzo

Probably not, but that of Ludovica Rubbini and Riccardo Gaspari, from this point of view, is at least emblematic. The context is that of the Ampezzo valley, of an unparalleled beauty, net of extra-luxury tourism, which in the middle of the season infests it with exaggerated ostentation. The fact remains that Cortina d’Ampezzo is one of the most beautiful places in the world, surrounded as it is with mountains of solemn elegance and views that are not easily forgotten. Indeed, every time, both under the light of the sun and in the middle of a snowfall, they are wonderfully different.

Our protagonists are a couple of thirty-year-olds who learn to know each other since the age of 15, cortinese doc him, bolognese she who for love and “maybe my parents have done to get me out of the smog of Bologna” attends three years of superior up here at 1300 meters above sea level. Moral of the story, after a few pull and ritual (“up and down on vacation, but I had already understood that he would be the man of my life”), in 2007, from the parts of twenty years (“I arrived with the suitcases “), the town Ludovica definitely turns into mountain. The Brite de Larieto, an agritourism company obtained from a former uninhabited hut at an altitude of 1700 and a stimulating place for the brand new SanBrite, is a creature born in 2004 of the parents of Riccardo.

Flavio, the father, was a carpenter, which does not hurt having to do with stables and structures, while Riccardo before the lightning on the way to the kitchen was the ski instructor with a brilliant past of blue athlete of free descent and a noble passage to the art school. In 2012, where is now also the home of SanBrite born the small Brite dairy: beautiful emotion when Riccardo, just before the end of a lunch, asks you to follow him in the kitchen, makes you cross and go down the stairs to get to the sancta sanctorum of its cheeses in seasoning and gives you a plate with a wonderful dessert all over milk, the same milk from which the cheese maker every morning helps him to obtain a butter that wins every human resistance to temptation, worked with cream from outcrop. : 300 liters for 2 or 3 kilograms of concentration and pure throat to spread on a piece of bread just out of the oven.

 Rapid renovation works, from the autumn of 2016 to July 2017, lead to the opening of what is now the SanBrite, or the brite (malga where milk is processed). This completes what is a real family “supply chain”, the farmhouse with cows, goats, chickens and pigs, the vegetable garden that runs full steam in summer and a simple kitchen, the dairy and the small restaurant in which, says Riccardo, “we want to make a serious mountain cuisine, with the right ingredients and dishes to remember”.

But where does the way of enlightenment really get to a style that transports the Alpine tradition to a more modern setting, enriching it with a kind creative note without upsetting it? You go back four years ago, when a twenty-eight-year-old Riccardo has the intuition, after a lunch with Ludovica at Osteria Francescana. From there to spend a few months in the kitchen with Massimo Bottura the step is short, the hand trained by the summer practices in the kitchen under the watchful eye of the mother, guardian of old timeless Ampezzo recipes, is enriched with experiences, ideas and enthusiasm. And that’s it. On a sunny day from this house climbing to some curve from the strand of the center of Cortina, in a cradle of silence, you can admire the Tofane, immanent keepers that rise shining on the other side of the valley, while all that surrounds you is hot, starting from the sinuous shape of the wooden and metal chairs, the result of a skilful artisan recovery, to get to the tables to which, says Ludovica “we decided to change the version between lunch, when we eat with exposed wood and dinner (Riccardo likes it better) with traditional tablecloths “.

So you take a seat and immediately get some delicious amuse bouche sylvan, before an appetizer that the chef loves particularly, like the lard cooked in a vacuum in the honey of Tiglio di Cibiana, then portioned